There are three primary methods used to permanently remove hair: Electrolysis, Thermolysis, and “Blend” methods. Electrolysis was the first method invented and it is also the name of the field. All three methods are considered forms of Electrolysis.
All three methods require inserting a very thin needle or probe into each individual hair follicle through the ostium, which is the natural opening in the skin where the hair emerges. Energy is applied to a needle or probe, and the germinative cells (stem cells) that create the hair are destroyed. The detached hair is then gently removed from the follicle with a pair of tweezers.
Each hair is only attached to the body at the base of the hair follicle where the stem cells live and germinate the hair. The walls of the follicle are called the “inner root sheath” and are like the body’s natural Teflon. The sebaceous gland produces a liquid called sebum that lubricates the walls of the follicle to help the hair slide out. Thanks to the inner root sheath and sebum, my probe can slide down into the follicle next to the hair without any pain.
The primary job of the electrologist is to kill the stem cells in the hair follicle that cause the hair to grow. A perfectly treated hair will simply slide out of your body, and you will not feel the extraction. Our job is NOT to pluck the hairs from your body. If you are consistently feeling a plucking sensation from an electrologist–STOP THE SESSION AND LEAVE! Plucking means they are not killing the hairs. You can pluck your hairs at home for free.
Below is an simplified history and description of the three Electrolysis methods.
Electrolysis (aka “Pure Galvanic”)
Electrolysis is the original permanent hair removal technique invented over 150 years ago in 1875 by Dr. Charles E. Michel in order to permanently remove the ingrown eyelashes of a patient.
Electrolysis uses direct current (DC) electricity to create a chemical reaction that converts the body’s own saline moisture into a very strong alkaline called sodium hydroxide (also called “lye”) to safely and slowly dissolve the cells inside the hair follicle. In order to be effective, the current needs to be applied to the follicle for minutes at a time, making this the slowest method.
Thermolysis
In 1924 about 50 years after Electrolysis was invented, Dr. Henri Bordier published his research on a new technique he invented that we now call Thermolysis. That is over 100 years ago, so this is not new technology!
Thermolysis uses a very small amount of alternating current (AC) at a very high frequency to create enough heat to coagulate the tissue and cauterize the cells near the tip of an insulated probe. The goal is to precisely kill the stem cells that eventually grow to become a new hair with minimal destruction to the surrounding tissue. The application of energy happens in a fraction of a second instead of minutes, so the process is nearly instantaneous. Most of the treatment time is physically spent inserting the probe and removing the dead hair.
Ever since the mid 1980’s when personal computers were invented, our modern epilation devices have become digital, making the very precise instruments producing a consistent treatment. The newest machines even having touchscreen displays and large databases containing specific settings for every part on the body, ensuring a much more consistent treatment from operator to operator.
When performed properly by a skilled person, Thermolysis is just as effective as pure Electrolysis or the Blend method, and I can treat much larger areas in the same amount of time. The latest computerized Thermolysis machines operate at much higher frequencies with precision, so they are not as “hot” as the older machines. I have had many clients fall asleep on my table when using this method due to the speed and decreased level of pain.
The “Blend Method” (aka “Combined Currents”)
In the mid 1940’s, Arthur Hinkel and Henri St. Pierre invented a machine that perfomed both Electrolysis and Thermolysis in the same treatment. They submitted their patent for the “Blend Method” in 1945 and it was approved in 1948. They began manufacturing and selling their machine, and they opened a school in order to teach people how to use it. Most people have heard about this method.
Blend requires leaving the probe in each follicle for a minimum of 5 seconds but usually 8 to 10 seconds in order to produce enough sodium hydroxide to be effective. The chemical reaction continues to take effect for several seconds after the probe is removed. Depending on the machine, Thermolysis can be performed either before Electrolysis, simultaneously during the Electrolysis treatment, or after Electrolysis has been performed and is usually triggered by depressing or releasing a foot pedal.
I consider Blend to be the “industrial strength” method of permanent hair removal for use with very thick, very deep, or curly hair. Blend is slower than Thermolysis, but for some people, it is the only effective treatment for certain types of hair.
Needles versus Probes
Needles are very similar to sewing needles but without the hole at the tip. They are a single piece of solid metal that is sharp, stiff, and non-insulated. The energy is applied to the entire length of a needle, which means that both the dermis (the middle layer of the skin) and the epidermis (outermost layer of the skin) are treated. In my experience, needles tend to cause more scabbing and surface imperfections.
Probes are a much more advanced instrument. They are a two piece device having a thick “shank” at one end (that goes into my probeholder) and a thin “filament” at the other (which goes into your skin). The filament is a thin and flexible piece of stainless steel that has been micro-polished to be extremely smooth, it is mechanically rounded at the tip to prevent it from puncturing the skin, and then it coated with Teflon except for the tip. The insulated coating does three things: (1) it helps the probe slide down into the natural opening of your skin, (2) it focuses all of the energy to the non-insulated tip of the probe, which allows me to reduce the power to get the same result, and (3) it protects the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), which reduces the risk of scabbing.
I do NOT use “needles”, though many electrologists still use them. Even though they are more expesive and disposable, I only use the ProTec line of probes because they are the best tool for this job. They come in 5 different sizes and two different types, which gives me 10 different options when selecting a probe that matches the diameter of your hair and your skin type.
Summary
The original pure Electrolysis technique is the oldest and slowest, so it is rarely if ever used today. The Blend method is much faster than pure Electrolysis but still much slower than Thermolysis. Thermolysis is almost instantaneous and is just as effective as the other two techniques.
The type of pain experienced using each method varies from person to person. For me, Blend is more painful due to the length of time the probe is in each follicle. Thermolysis is generally the least painful method using today’s advanced electronics, so it is favored by many electrologists–including me.
My Strategy
Because Thermolysis is the fastest and most comfortable technique for most people, I always start with Thermolysis. If there is a compelling reason to use an alternative method, then I can switch to the Blend method. A few of my clients have tough and stubborn hairs, so I usually start with Blend and switch back to Thermolysis for most of the normal and finer hairs.
The vast majority of my clients are successfully treated with Thermolysis alone. I have literally worked on every part of the body from head to toe, and approximately half of my clients need hair removed from the face and neck. I have even removed the hair growing on the eyelids of more than a dozen women using Thermolysis.
Side Effects
Electrolysis by definition causes the destruction of tissues inside the human body, and the goal of the electrologist is to minimize the amount of destruction to minimize the recovery time. A well trained, skilled, and experienced electrologist can use any method safely and give the same results.
However, ANY method can cause unintended side effects, such as scabbing and temporary hyperpigmentation and potentially (but thankfully rarely) even scarring. If an electrologist is telling you that one type of electrolysis is dangerous, then they do not fully understand that technology and probably have never trained in that method.
Education & Skill
The State of California requires all electrologists attend an accredited school with at least 600 hours of instruction IN ALL THREE TECHNIQUES followed by the passing of a State Board Exam.